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Happy Birthday, Pepe’s

Posted by Michael Stern , June 22, 2010 06:32

Pepe's 85th

85 years ago during the third week of June, Frank Pepe, who had been working as a baker selling tomato pies from a cart at New Haven’s Wooster Street Market, opened Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana at 157 Wooster Street. To celebrate the anniversary, the family threw a party on the first day of summer at the original location, now known as The Spot, next door to today's Pepe's. A variety of pizzas were made for the occasion, including fresh tomato pie. Francis Rosselli, Pepe’s grandson, pictured at the lower right, pointed out that the coal-fired oven in which these pizzas were made is the one Frank Pepe started with 85 years ago. (Francis, by the way, took the picture of the burning coals, bravely risking lens-melt!)

Categories: News

Comments

6/29/2010 6:44:05 PM #

It was 1955, and my family had just moved to New Haven from the Middle West, where pizza was, so far as I know, unheard of. I saw it being sold by the slice for 25 cents at the Savin Rock amusement park, was curious, but didn't try it. Not long afterward, I went alone--I was in eighth grade--to Pepe's Apizza in Westville, a small satellite restaurant of the real thing downtown on Wooster Street. It was run by an older woman who I think was Frank Pepe's sister, and her 20-something son. I sat in a booth and abashedly ordered the cheapest thing on the menu, a small plain tomato pie. It cost 50 cents, and when it arrived on a beat-up tin pan, I wondered if I got the whole thing for that or only one slice. It was so hot it burned the roof of my mouth, but it was delicious, unlike anything I'd ever tasted. A friend later introduced me to the even more wonderful mozzarella version that cost 10 cents more and then added a pepperoni topping. That combination is still my favorite, and although I left New Haven a few years later, I've never forgotten the special character of a Pepe's apizza. Just recently, a young New Haven businessman opened Pete's Apizza near my home in Washington (www.petesapizza.com) pronounced, as in New Haven, Pete's Abeetz. It's wonderful, as close to the real thing as you can get outside Wooster Street.

Michael Putzel United States |

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