Relish to Relish

MiamiDon’s recent post of a picture showing a hot dog he ate at Swanky Frank's got my appetite churning for a long-overdue return trip to the 1951-vintage snack shack at the end of the Exit 14 exit ramp off I-95 in Norwalk, Connecticut. I was most looking forward to French fries, which are some of the best around – thin-cut, crunchy, with thickets of squiggly bits and ends and crisp little twigs that get better and better as you eat your way to the spud debris at the bottom of the basket. But what wowed me even more was Swanky’s relish, a mustard blend with bits of onion that is not so much hot as it is tangy and intriguing – a magnificent condiment for a chewy, natural-casing, deep-fried, extra-long tube steak loaded into a griddle-crisped bun.