When Bad Things Happen to Good Cafes

Charleston is Roadfood heaven, rich with restaurants that uphold Lowcountry tradition as well as those that riff on it and plenty of places that go their own way. Great meals can be had on and around the peninsula for anywhere from $5 to $100, in casual cafes and polite dining rooms. In other words, there is no excuse whatsoever to waste appetite on mediocre food. That is why I’ve archived the Roadfood.com review for Cafe Cafe on Meeting Street. Once a charming little storefront featuring fresh baked goods, it was a sorry shadow of itself on two visits in the last couple of days. (I should have stopped at only one; but duty demanded I make sure my thumbs-down was justified.) Muffins, once served hot from the tin, are now reheated inside plastic wrap, which, when peeled away, yields a hot, gummy pastry unworthy of attention. Although the muffin pictured above had streaks that resembled blueberries, the kitchen’s mistreatment had eradicated all berry flavor. A Belgian waffle was crude and doughy. When a granola plate arrived, the waitress apologized because the kitchen had run out of granola, leaving only unfresh fruit and unremarkable yogurt. The espresso was fine, but in my book a good cup of espresso does not merit a recommendation, especially in a city so full of culinary excellence.