Having grown up on the simple excellence of Chicagoland's Affy Taples, I am forever agog at the baroque extremes to which the caramel-covered apple has been taken. Between bouts of seafood in St. Augustine, I couldn't resist a visit this afternoon to a cut-above sweet shop on St. George Street called Kilwin's. They sell fudge, of course -- why do tourists love fudge? -- as well as very good ice cream in just-made waffle cones. There are lovely chocolate-dipped pretzel rods and chocolate-dipped Rice Krispie squares and a large assortment of caramel apples, from plain ($3.96) to the full turtle treatment of pecans and chocolate ($7.07). They are mighty good snacks, not so much for the coatings, but because the apples themselves are big, crisp, tart Granny Smiths -- a full match for all the sweetness the confectioners can apply.