By my count, Michael Principi is the third chef at Chez Lenard, the hot dog cart that parks every day on Main Street in Ridgefield, Connecticut. A 2000 graduate of Ridgefield High, Mike brings a welcome joie de vivre to the weenie wagon and, as far as I can taste, he has done nothing to change the winning formulae that put this place a cut above. I went for the Hot Dog Supreme, which includes mustard (your choice: hot or regular), Louisiana relish (spicy or regular), Dijon mustard, chopped onion and -- pace, fellow Chicago red hot lovers -- a line of tomato ketchup. The dog is all beef and muscular in a natural casing; the bun is fresh; and the ambience on a Spring day, sitting on the single sidewalk bench available to customers, is unsurpassed.